Gems

The Confusing World of Garnets: Varieties and Availability


Garnets, to me, are some of the most “disorganized” gems available on the market today.  Their sheer variety, but also their names, can be very confusing to the uninitiated, leaving the connoisseur not far behind.  Here’s an attempt to cut through the confusion.
“Garnet” really refers to a variety of gemstones that are related but not identical in their chemical properties. In terms of their...
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Vintage Diamonds


If you read my blog, you know that I am infatuated with old stuff.  I like old mine colored gems, even though the cutting is often poor, I like antique jewelry, and my own designs often have an antique look.  I love the detail and workmanship of the jewelry work of bygone days.
But I also like bling. And nothing has more bling than a diamond. No wonder, then, that vintage diamonds appeal to me the...
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Buying Sphene


I usually try to stay away from the softer gemstones – after too many experiences of them falling apart on you.  But sphene, which has a hardness of 5.5, is just such a beautiful stone that when J., my gemstone dealer friend who specializes in East African goods got a parcel, I just had to have some.
Sphene is also called “Titanite” because of its high titanium content. It has an extremely high...
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The Fading Beauty of Spodumene


With so many interesting and neat gemstones on the market, knowing what's what can get very confusing. But some information should still be made more public! Kunzite is a pink gemstone that has gained some recent popularity. It is part of the family of Spodumene, which also includes a green variety called Hiddenite (colored by chromium), as well as clear and yellowish stones. The specimens are...
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Inclusion or Crack? A Fine Line

We’re getting sucked into the lore together, my customers and I.  Once you own a couple of pretty pieces, you want more: bigger, better, more perfect looking.  And so the stakes increase.  Most of you now own a loupe, and the new customers already come equipped.  That’s the reputation I built, for better or worse.

And with May, the birthstone month of emerald, just having ended, I can breathe a...
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Color Change Gems

Color change is a fascinating phenomenon in gems.  I have seen strong color change phenomena in three stones: alexandrite, garnet and sapphire.  But there are others, such as diaspore (which I don’t think I’ve ever seen).  There are also gems that have weaker color shifting effects, depending on the angle of the light.  This is called pleochroism.  Tanzanite, tourmaline, iolite and andalusite are... Continue reading

Getting Cheated: How to Avoid Buying Fake Alex

It happens; it can even be unintentional.  You buy some alex, you and the seller think it’s real, and then it turns out to be lab created.  Alexandrite is one of the most imitated gemstones on the market today, and fakes have been around for a long time.  The lab guys I use hear it all the time: “But this was my grandmother’s, it can’t be fake.”  One of my colleagues had a ring just like that,... Continue reading

The Story of a Sapphire

Sapphires seem to have disappeared from the face of the earth.  Literally – because we can’t get very far below it.  This is true of Ceylon in particular, and Burma is pretty much long gone.  African material you can get, Thai also, but not Ceylon.  The good stuff goes at exorbitant prices, and unheated stones have almost vanished.  Meanwhile, I have a small waiting list of people who are... Continue reading

How to Heat a Zircon

My friend Anya and I were buying some stones at a gem dealer friend’s house last weekend.  When we got there, we saw some rosy colored gems on his desk and I asked what they were.  “Zircons”, he said. “I just heated them.”

“Huh?”  I didn’t know heating could be this low tech.  Because we were standing in his home office, and he didn’t have any particular equipment that suggested whatever fancy...
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The other Tanzanite

Last December I pooh-poohed Tanzanite as a bad investment.  I guess I always say what I think, even if it hurts my own business...  But Tanzanite really is tricky.  Relatively new on the market (since 1967 or something), it has gotten seriously pushed by the large conglomerates that own most of the mines in Tanzania.  That’s why it now is a December birthstone, by the way.  Meanwhile, the material... Continue reading