Gems

Russian Demantoid: What’s the Deal with Horsetail Inclusions?

Russian Demantoid: What’s the Deal with Horsetail Inclusions?

As many of you know, I have been selling quite a few Russian demantoids on my site in the last year.  Initially they came from only one source, old stock, topping out at (exactly) 3.2mm, no heat, and a very bright medium apple green, no secondary yellow.  Super nice stuff, great cutting, all priced at $800/ct.  I still have some of that stock, but not much, and my source is out.  The price, as I said, is the price of older stock, and unless one finds a good connection, Russian prices are now much higher.

Demantoid Garnet

Three Colors of Demantoids

And then that’s just what happened.  I finally met another demantoid seller with reasonable prices in Tucson!  I found Sergey’s booth tucked away in the back of JCK, he was sharing the booth with someone, and he had only Russian demantoids, nothing else.  Sergey has a geology degree and taught at the University of Moscow for a while, then – Russian economy being what it is - decided to try himself at gems selling instead.  And he was very knowledgeable about his stones.  His stock was all well cut, ranging from an olive green to a rich deep forest green – I think industry calls it “emerald green.”  Although there is dispute, sometimes “apple green” refers to the darker color, sometimes not.  There is agreement though that the top stones should be bright, they should pop, and they should not have any yellow in them.  After a long discussion with Sergey and louping many of the gems, I was convinced that the material was legit – it’s a little easier to judge demantoids because you can tell a lot just by louping them and looking at the inclusions.  So I took the risk and purchased some pieces.  I first showed them to my other source in Tucson, it’s not something one likes to do but I just needed to know I wasn’t making a mistake.  Then I took them to the lab in NY.  Josh Lents, my colored stone guy at GAL, loved the colors and he explained a lot to me about how to judge the gems.

Demantoid Garnet, Kenyan Tsavorite

Demantoid and Kenyan Tsavorite

It’s funny in a way: Russian demantoid is the only gem – that I know of anyway – that is bought because of its inclusions, not despite them.  Demantoid inclusions are actually made of asbestos – so don’t chew on them I guess!  The typical horsetail type inclusion is only found in Russia (actually I’ve heard conflicting reports about this, but that’s the official story).  Not all gems have them, the smaller the piece the less likely it is that it has a horsetail.  But some gems have partial horsetails, and others have asymmetrical whispy inclusions that are also quite distinct.  I’m including some photos here, please inquire if you are interested in purchasing them.  They are getting listed on Etsy as we speak.

Horsetail Inclusions of Demantoid in the Photo

Aside from the Ural mountains in Russia, demantoids (named after the French “demant” for diamond), are also found in Namibia and Iran.  Namibian material is considerably more olive in color, though it also has some nice dispersion.  Iranian material is quite rare, even rarer than Russian.  Some of it is also apple green. 

Whispy Inclusions of Asbestos

What about treatment?  Some Russian demantoids are heated at 800 F to enhance color (that is considered low heat), but this treatment is undetectable in the laboratory.  So the best shot you have at knowing if the gem was heated is to know and trust your source.  The treatment is permanent and stable.

You can find some photos of finished jewelry with these demantoids on the pricescope thread here.

And here's a video of one of our gems: 

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What Makes Rare Gems Rare?

There is so much talk about rare, or "rare" gems these days.  All of us sellers - myself included - use the term a lot, and I imagine it must be hard for consumers to know what to believe.  And of course, each story is different. Not all gems are rare because there aren't any, however contradictory that sounds.
It is hard to sketch a comprehensive picture of the very complicated gem and gem supply...
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What I Have Learned about Paraibas

This blog entry has been a long time coming - I should have written it over a year ago, when I first started buying Paraibas on my inaugural visit in Tucson.
I have seen and admired Paraiba tourmalines ever since I got into the gem business in 2009. At that point, I knew little about buying and grading gems, but I was already attracted by their neon glow. I bought one single piece to make a tie bar...
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Diamonds are a Girls....

Since I deal mainly in untreated gemstones, I have stayed away from using colored diamonds.  Most of them are irradiated and while I make exceptions for heat treatment, irradiation is a no go - it's the reason I don't carry Morganite.

In the last few months, however, I started to increasingly play with natural yellow and pink diamonds, so I thought it might be fun to share some of my insights, and... Continue reading

My Favorite Color Combos

Going gem shopping, for me, isn't only about chasing down the nicest and most unusual gems.  It can also be about finding colors that work well with my designs or my other gems.  I get very exited when I find a bright 1.2mm melee gem that still pops, like the amethyst I recently added to some of my designs.  Amethyst may not be an exiting stone, but having purple melee IS exciting.

So one thing... Continue reading

About Those Pretty Grape-Purple Garnets

There's been much buzz about these grape-purple Rhodolite garnets lately.  Well, actually they are closer to Malaia garnet than Rhodolite - my friend Josh Lents from GAL (Gemological Appraisal Laboratory of America: http://www.gemlab.com/) did a microscopic analysis.



Grape Garnet Ovals and Emerald Cut
But let me back up. Purple-grape colored garnets have been around for a bit, but the material was... Continue reading

Tourmaline: Heated or Unheated?

Tourmaline: Heated or Unheated?
It has been a while since I blogged about a particular type of gemstone, but having heard some new and interesting things about tourmaline, I thought I’d share.
As many of you have noted, a lot of gemstone prices have risen sharply in the last couple of years. But tourmaline? Isn’t that a common gem? Yes, it is, but world demand for this gem has gone up, especially the bright pink variety called...
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Why have Mandarin Garnet, Tsavorite Garnet, and Mahenge Spinel Become so Expensive?

A couple of months ago, I saw a discussion on PriceScope about availability of Tsavorite and Mint Garnet, Mandarin and Spessartite Garnet, as well as Mahenge Spinel, all of which come from the same regions in Tanzania and Kenya.  As a vendor, I can’t post on PS – which is a good idea by the way – but the question was an interesting one so I want to post my two cents here on my blog.

 



Mint Garnet
As...
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Mahenge Spinel Revisited

I've decided to do another blog entry on Mahenges not only because I am totally obsessed with them but also because I recently got to pick a small batch from a 2009 parcel that my supplier's uncle released from his vault.  The rest of the parcel went overseas but I got some neat stuff.  I'll be listing my pretties piece by piece for the upcoming holiday season.
As you may or may not know, Mahenge...
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Buying Opals, Pro’s and Cons

I do not carry a lot of opal jewelry in my shop, but with the month of opal coming up, I can share with you my experience with this gem. As you know, opal is a very soft stone and that makes it hard to work with – one reason I don’t carry it much. Bezel settings look nicest, yet prongs are safest if you don’t want to crack the gem or expand an inclusion to the surface. You need an experienced...
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