Gem & Jewelry Industry

Hand Engraving

Engraving can add a nice personal touch to a piece of jewelry that is special to you. I recently sold an unheated Burma sapphire to Jeannie, who had been looking for one for years. But that kind of expenditure doesn't always leave financial room for a custom design from scratch. So we had to improvise. Jeannie wanted something antique looking but without an astronomical price tag (which is rather...
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RISK! How to Deal in High End Gems and Not Lose Your Shirt – or the Gem

Last November, I was approached by an Australian customer to source an engagement stone for her. She wanted a Ceylon sapphire, 4 carats, emerald cut, no heat, with cert. The budget: $15,000. Needless to say I don’t have those kinds of stones lying around. Not in that price range for sure, but I also don’t have the kind of inventory in larger sizes that allows for such specifics. Nonetheless I was...
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Breaking an Apatite. Or: How Observation can Interfere with Experiment

So I had the brilliant idea of taking snapshots while my setter, Pierre, set an apatite into my new silver halo ring. Dark blue sapphire outside, turquoise center, it was going to look fabulous. Pierre has some very fancy setting equipment. At his bench there is a huge microscope with very strong lighting that costs several thousand dollars, surrounded by lots of other smaller gadgets. I guess you...
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Precision Cuts: Are they For You?

If you are addicted to gems, you will soon find yourself getting attracted to precision cut gems – gems that have unusual shapes and more intriguing faceting patterns. But setting gems like these is a whole other story. The cutter’s objective – bringing out the best of the gem – often conflicts with jewelry design and ease of setting. So before you sink all your spare change (and then some) into a...
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Should This Gem be Recut?

The gems I offer on Etsy do run the gamut: some have amazing cutting that brings out the absolute best of the gem, others are look more like someone was still practicing on them.  Wouldn’t I be better off having those recut?
There are pros and cons to this question. To me, there are three important factors to consider when asking myself if I should recut a gem: price, outcome, and what type of gem...
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Making New Out of Old: Restoring Antique Jewelry


I’ve been infatuated with antique jewelry lately.  It has a delicacy and detail that you don’t find very much in the mass produced styles of today.  Last fall I started collecting and converting antique stick pins, and a month or so ago I began looking at rings.  But working with antique jewelry can be challenging.  Here’s an example of how I refurbished an old Victorian ring.
 
Finding antique...
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Outsourcing: What you Can – and Shouldn’t Do at Home


I produce an average of 20 items of jewelry per week, and if you assume that one item takes an hour, you can do the math of how long it takes to make everything from scratch.  If you then add the time to make listings, photos, convos, pack orders, shop for gems and supplies, it adds up to this: not gonna happen.  Not even if I quit my full time job.  Which I love.
So I do what most people do who...
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Making a Melt: Selling Gold Straight to a Refinery


When you sell gold on 47thStreet, there are two ways to go. You can sell at any one of the small gold dealers (or the larger ones), or you can go straight to a refinery that melts it for you. Prices are often in the same neighborhood, but when you have scrap that’s not identifiable, or that you suspect is thickly plated over silver, or lots of individual pieces that would have to be tested...
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Guest Blog: The Search for a Classic OEC

Guest Entry by Anya

If you read Yvonne’s entry on Vintage diamonds – OMCs (Old Mine Cuts) and OECs (Old European Cuts) – you will have noticed that she called them the only “truly rare” diamonds on the market today. That is because diamonds with this type of cut are no longer mass produced. Old-cut aficionados like me have to get creative to find the perfect stone. Here are some tips on how to go...
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Jewelry Insurance


I’ve been wanting to write about this topic for a while.  I often get asked why I don’t have insurance when I refuse to set a customer’s stone because  - as I explain – I’m not insured for it.
The hard truth is I can’t afford it, and most people I know on 47thStreet can’t either. Jewelry stores have insurance because (I think) they’re required, but this does not apply to gemstone dealers and small...
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